Thursday 16 March 2017

Into the mountains

1 September, 2014

Moroccans communicate!
Look closely .... whispering (fake) palms in Marrakech

Moroccans talking ... from one hill-top to the next

There’s the time-honoured gathering of blokes at the “pub equivalent” (no alcohol here) while the women are at home with the children. And then there’s the farm worker riding his donkey …. ear glued to his mobile phone, mouth moving a whole lot faster than his donkey. But then riding a donkey is simple, isn’t it? Yes, for most. But me? I failed donkey riding. Only lasted a few hundred metres before begging to get off 😦


Poor donkey ..... and I'm not looking too happy either

It was barely OK going up hill, but when the ground sloped down and the donkey followed, the fabric covering the saddle, which was all I had to hold onto, pushed forward with my white-knuckled grip. I felt like I was about to pitch straight over the donkey’s head. A conversation went through my head:
How did she die?
She fell off a donkey and rolled down a mountain.
I was ever so glad to get back to Riad Ourika Gardens, a really lovely place, where Karim and his staff could not have made me more welcome.

Morocco does export farm produce to Europe but I’m not sure how that works. Something to look up when I get home. Most farms seem to be on a small scale – with transport to match.

Cattle transport


The grapes were fabulous - as was all the fruit .... except prickly pears. I draw the line at what are considered noxious weeds at home!

Grapes

At the beginning of the Ourika Valley, we left the inhospitable brown, stony land behind and, with only a bit of water, entered the world of the lush oasis.

First view of the mountains - through the haze

In my mind an oasis had always been of a circle of palm trees around a water hole or well. And there were some of those. But along a whole river, for some distance either side, it’s also an oasis. As well as palms, farmers make the most of every square inch of earth and plant a variety of crops.

Entering the lush Ourika Valley

After recovering from my donkey fail, we went for a drive right up the Ourika valley. Another expectation re-arranged. I’d imagined a babbling river fringed by trees. It was that. But it was also a hive of activity with the ubiquitous roadside stalls, plus, as we got further up, cafe after cafe, Moroccan style.

Pots and more pots
Luscious fruit
The local butcher
Tagines on the coals

It turns out this area is a popular day out to escape the heat of Marrakech. We went up the valley early – then watched cars and taxis full of families arriving from our eyrie in a cafe above the river which we got to via a very rickety bridge.

Hami urged me on as I crossed that rickety bridge

I could see why it’s such a popular spot – it was soooo relaxing just sitting there, watching other people relaxing …. and children playing in the shallow water.

Riverside - table or tent?
I want the table 'in' the water!

But then we left, going against the tide of cars still coming up the valley as we made the return journey. For us, more places to go, people to see.



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