Tuesday 14 March 2017

A side trip to Norfolk

19 – 21 August, 2014

My visit to London was punctuated by three days, two nights, in Norfolk and excellent it was.

My time staying at Clenchwarton was perfect. I caught up with people (except Ted, who sadly couldn’t make it) and places I wanted to see. And I also had some much needed rest time. After arriving close to midday, my body appreciated a rest while I chatted and caught up with my host, Andrew, with whom I also stayed in 2008. That evening it was off to see an English institution, in this case Sue’s allotment after coffee, and muffins (made by Pamela), at Sue’s.
Part of Sue's allotment

Sunset at the allotments

It was a larger space than I imagined with a huge variety of vegetables growing prolifically. Pamela also joined us on the allotment visit then we all went off to the pub for dinner. We’d taken a bit long and had kept Ben waiting. Sorry Ben! It was great to catch up with them all, then we went ringing. Well! I hadn’t been on the end of a rope since North America in 2011 and I hadn’t rung properly since 2008. I was reasonably OK with the ropes but my memory for methods ….. blame old age! 😦 A quick drink after ringing and the catch-up was over. But Sue is counting down five years until a retirement visit to Australia and New Zealand.
Chatteris Parish Church of St Peter & St Paul

It was just awful news to learn that Pamela’s husband died suddenly on the Saturday after our happy get-together. Deepest sympathy to Pamela, RIP Jim.

Wednesday 20 August, was my full day in the area. A relaxed start to the day then morning ringing at Fincham. Again it was really enjoyable, in spite of my mistakes. So much so that after these brief ringing experiences I thought I might look into taking up ringing again. We’ll see. [2017: I didn't!]

Baptismal font at Fincham St Martin
One of the roof angels looking down
at Fincham St Martin church

Then it was off to Norwich Cathedral, a bit of a hike but Andrew kindly agreed to take me. Quite a few years ago I read a book review: “Stories in Stone: the Medieval Roof Carvings of Norwich Cathedral” by Martial Rose and Julia Hedgecoe. A bit later I tracked a copy to the Architecture Library at the University of Melbourne, had a look and bought a copy on Amazon. I’ve wanted to see the bosses at Norwich ever since. The best were difficult to see as the cathedral roof soars.
The best I could manage of the main nave bosses

There were easier to see bosses in the cloisters (much lower ceilings there).

A roof boss in the cloister

While I couldn’t see the main bosses as well as I’d have liked, what I saw was as expected so not disappointing. The bosses along the main nave tell the biblical story, starting with Adam and Eve at the altar end. We did a conducted tour of the cathedral and that was excellent – misericords, stained glass of various periods, memorials of all sorts.


Wonderful glass -
the cathedral was originally a Benedictine establishment

Always look up!

A rare fragment of original decoration

St Felix - brought Christianity to East Anglia

One photo I didn’t take was of the memorial to a 16C member of the choir, Osberto Parsley. What a name! Did he get teased or was it not so fanciful then?! Norwich Cathedral seems a bit off the tourist trail …… it’s well worth making a detour.

That evening I caught another English “tradition” that’s available in Australia but I’ve not tuned in: Eastenders! I could see how easy it would be to get hooked!!

Next morning I packed my bags and we were off to the station – via Houghton Hall.
Houghton Hall
Side wing of Houghton Hall

I’d wanted to go there since reading “Sassoon: the Worlds of Philip and Sybil” by Peter Stansky, many years ago. In fact Andrew drove me there during my last visit to Norfolk but it turned out to be
closed. Many paintings that now live in The Hermitage in St Petersburg had once hung at Houghton. They were sold to Catherine the Great to pay later Walpole debts, Robert Walpole being the builder of Houghton. The present owners (the Cholmondeley, pronounced Chumly, family) starting with Sybil, have brought it back to life over the past 100+ years. Whilst it was the house I came to see (no photos allowed), the weather was perfect for walking in the magnificently tended gardens …. I’ve never seen lawns so immaculate!!

Working courtyard

There are stables, etc in and around this courtyard. Also a large display of tiny soldiers in formation for famous battles - a strange hobby. 21st C work areas include cafe, shop, loos for visitors.

Part of the walled garden, looking to the courtyard
Apple and pear trees being espaliered
to form an arch over a pathway
The Croquet Lawn -
visitors are welcome to play - but we didn't!

As with earlier segments of my trip, it was over far too quickly. 
THANK YOU to Andrew, my host and chauffeur, to those I was catching up with who made the effort to join me, and to those I met for the first time. All of you made my stay a very happy time.

The King’s Cross – King’s Lynn train trip is a fast and pleasant 1.5 hours passing through Ely, with it’s stunning cathedral on the skyline, and Cambridge, with no ‘views of note’ at all from the train.

Countryside, from the train to London from King's Lynn


Is Barcelona, is Gaudi – Sagrada Familia (pt.1)

Gaudi is the reason I included Barcelona in the itinerary of my Last Hurrah trip. I’ve loved his work for as long as I can remember. My fi...