Showing posts with label Nomads. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nomads. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 March 2017

Goodbye to the desert

7 September 2014

After returning by camel from my night spent in a desert camp, it was off to shower and change. What would have been bliss at that point would have been time to simply gaze at the dunes, contemplating the magic of my overnight adventure. Alas! Not to be. We were off again, in this land of contrasts.


No time to lie down and contemplate the desert outside the door

Retracing our route through Merzouga and Rissani, first stop was on the outskirts of Erfoud. In “age of the earth” terms, we were not so far from the sea so it shouldn’t have been surprising to learn we were in an area that abounds in sea creature fossils. Our stop was to visit a factory that processed these fossils – individual ones and great slabs of them.





Anything from small plates to large table tops, large and small containers, you name it – you could get it in fossilized stone. Two of the kasbahs I stayed in had fossil hand basins, one the size of the one in the photo here, the other twice the size. I wouldn’t have minded buying a small souvenir but everything I liked failed the “How heavy is it? Will it break?” test. I still had some baggage restrictions to worry about!





Back on the road again, we were tracking the path of Ziz River. We stopped for lunch at a rather grand establishment overlooking the Ziz Gorge at Taddamoute. You don’t see any water of course. All you see is the date palm groves.
Yet more stunning views of Morocco, from the terrace at lunchtime.



Ziz River Valley

Following lunch, it was time for serious driving, climbing the High Atlas into the Middle Atlas Mountains, through to Ifrane, a city that seemed plain wrong, such was the contrast with what we had just left behind! 
More rain, but ever so brief in spite of the threatening clouds. 


Thankfully not much rain from these clouds

We started to encounter traffic again. The major roads are really good to drive on. There’s been a massive road-building / sealing scheme here. Reminders of a home: a town name that could have been Aboriginal, graffiti on the road sign, roadside fruit stalls.

Traffic, Moroccan style
Road tunnel
Boulajoul
Fruit stall - almost like home

Vegetation began to appear, slowly at first, but the countryside got greener and greener. We left the hot desert and only a few hours later we were in a ski resort, granted in summer season, minus the snow. In ski season, apparently the place is booming with tourists from Europe.
We swapped sand for fruit trees for forests, mud brick kasbahs for European style hotels, with several nomad camps in between.
I stayed at Hotel Perce Neige – Snowdrop Hotel … a bit different to Golden Dunes!!! Did I say this is a land of contrasts!


Getting greener
Fruit trees
Nomad camp

We passed a large and growing military establishment, a dry river and a sadly depleted lake (which presumably fills with melted snow in spring, the river also), and some funny looking fence things – barriers to help keep snow from drifting onto the road. At one point there were relatively newly planted palms. I was intrigued by their bamboo ‘collars’, used to force the trunks to grow taller – it reminded me of those African and Burmese women with all their neck rings.

Military base on the road to Ifrane
Military base extension
Depleted lake
Dry river bed 
Roadside snow barrier
"Collared" baby palm trees

Late in the afternoon we arrived on the outskirts of Ifrane – heralded by new buildings and housing developments! The forests also became more dense. Indigenous Barbary macaques (a type of monkey – the ones that were introduced to Gibraltar) roam the forests and I was lucky enough to spot one. Not quick enough with my camera though 😦


Forests becoming quite dense
New-ish mosque
New housing development
So suburban

Once settled in my hotel, quite close to the city centre, I went off to explore this very European city with its gardens, cafes (I went “French” for dinner) and steeply pitched roofs complete with storks!


Fountains
Europe in North Africa

It was a balmy evening so lots of people, many family groups, were out enjoying themselves. I sat in the city ‘square’ for a little while for the pleasure of people watching. A local came up to chat for a few minutes – a lovely surprise.

Post Office, Ifrane
Balloon Boy
City 'square'

When darkness fell I was very glad I’d put some effort into memorising the twists and turns back to the hotel!


Fountain by night
Show me the way to go home

In the morning – Fes!


Let’s go to Fes!




Saturday, 18 March 2017

Heading to the Sahara

05 September, 2014

The box in my brain marked “Geography” is all too close to empty. I think we might have been technically in the desert for quite a while, with river oases running through it. But on leaving Zagora, we were heading to what westerners think of as “the desert”, i.e. the rolling sand dunes of the Sahara. Mind you, I should know better: the Australian desert is not as barren and devoid of interest as many people think …. even as I thought, before going there.

On the road 1
On the road 2 - new houses being built

We were heading to Merzouga but the address of our accommodation for the night, a kasbah with the French name Auberge Les Dunes D’Or, was, as in the Australian outback, some distance from the named dot on the map.

On the road 3
On the road 4

Along the road in the Ziz valley between Zagora and Rissani, we passed as close as we would get to Hami’s home, pretty close to the Algerian border. Not all that far as the crow flies, but sadly too far by road for them to have some time together. I really felt for this gorgeous young man who clearly adored his wife, daughter and extended family but whose job kept him away from them for so long.

On the road 5 - Crumbling mud bricks

Also on this stretch of road, it was the closest we came to a nomad camp. These people are largely herders of sheep and goats, as I understand it. It does look a bit messy around this camp site but I cannot blame the nomads specifically for it. The one sad thing to see in this truly beautiful country is all the rubbish along the roads. They need a Clean Up Morocco campaign as we have a Clean Up Australia campaign at home. Plus a worldwide restriction on the use of plastic bags!

Nomad camp

Morocco continues the old, world-wide practice of having gates to mark the entrance to administrative areas. A large region might have small gates and a bustling town or city have something more grand, all the way to the truly impressive such as the Blue Gate in Fes.

District gate between Zagora and Rissani
Gate at the entrance to Rissani
Blue gate - Bab Bou Jeloud - Fes

Not all that far on the other side of bustling Rissani, we hit the piste again. Then a shadow growing on the horizon ….

Piste .... with a very faint blur on the horizon
The blur grows ....

And suddenly there it was …. the kasbah at the edge of rolling sand dunes … The Sahara!

Auberge Dunes D'Or

I noted the pool and swam later but right then went straight to my room. Enter through the courtyard, at the far end open the door to my terrace and ... the view: the Sahara, the dunes here called Erg Chebbi, and …… gum trees???!!! Is there nowhere that Australian eucalypts have not spread like weeds!!

Gum trees in the Sahara???!!!

After a long swim, a yummy alfresco meal and a chat with some Australians – it had been a while since I’d heard that accent! – I then wrote the last blog post before giving up to continue when I got home.

My clunky but faithful EeePC



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